Pros Kill grubs optimally — a two-way formula High efficiency — last up to 3 months and every 32 ounces can treat 5, square feet of coverage No chemical odors. Cons It took forever to dry The hose connector could be higher quality.
Verdict Out of many ready-to-spray bug killers on the market, the BioAdvanced B — with its superb grub killing performance with no chemical smell or stress on the plants — entirely stands out. Pros Kill white grubs and other harmful insects within 24 hours - Excellent turf Rescue formula Easy to use. Pros Work efficiently and fast — a two-way formula No dust issues when spreading granules — they produce no dust at all.
Roundup for Lawns Bug Destroyer Granules. Pros Require less re-application — keep on killing bugs for 3 months after one application Effective — kill over listed grubs Instant results — within 24 hours. Verdict One application to keep on killing for 3 months, the Roundup for Lawns Bug Destroyer Granules is perfect for people who are in need of a long-lasting grub killer. What is the best product to kill grubs?
When should I treat my lawn for grubs? Early spring or fall. How to apply a grub killer? What is the best way to get rid of grubs in my lawn? Remember to water your lawn thoroughly one day before applying the grub killer.
Does soapy water kill lawn grubs? Harry Ramos. Best Overall. Best For White Grubs. Insecticides made with chemicals like trichlorfon and carbaryl are the most effective when applied in mid-August.
One pack treats 5, sq. Apply it in the spring. Find the best price. Formulated with carbaryl, the insecticide kills grubs on contact. One pack of 30 million nematodes covers 9, sq. Kills insects, prevents plant diseases. Farmers face the issue of grub worms on their lots from the end of the summer till the beginning of the fall. The worms feed on plant roots causing the lawn to wither and bronze, and the soil becomes loose. You will find out what the six most effective treatment ways approved by the scientists for short and long term.
You will decide whether it is better to use chemical or natural killers. Finding a perpetrator is a piece of cake, just check the damaged area for these pests. You will hardly confuse them with anything else, as grub worms have a peculiar body C-shape, six short legs, brown head and a cream body. Their lower abdomen is darker due to the soil particles in it. Grub worms can reach two inches in length. Remove some of the damaged soil carefully, especially in places where green grass borders brown grass and check for the grub worms matching the above description.
If you find five or fewer, do not worry, but they can definitely do harm to your lawn if there are over ten of them. Still, consider other factors of grass withering. For instance, in shady places, grass roots weaken and tear easily and larvae do not hatch. Another signal of these pests infecting your garden will be skunks and raccoons digging the lawn at night in search of food.
It is highly likely that they are looking specifically for these pests. Although lawn grubs lay eggs randomly, they have certain preferences. As a rule, they tend to lay eggs on sunny, moist lawns, so if the weather is dry and you have well irrigated your lawn, your chances of attracting lawn grubs are very high. Adult grubs lay eggs in the soil during the summer. Once the grubs hatch, they feed on plant roots and descend deep into the soil once it becomes colder, to spend the winter there.
In the spring, grub worms return to the surface and keep feeding on the roots until they become ripe. The biggest damage is caused from mid-September to November or from March till the beginning of May. Once you face this problem, decide which treatment approach is suitable for you: a curative or preventive one.
In both cases, the chemicals make plants toxic for pests. The former is appropriate for getting rid of existing grubs while the latter one is aimed at removing them in prospect. If the upper soil layer seems to be uninfected, there is no need to use an insecticide, even if there are several grub worms. A curative approach is suitable for solving the problem quickly, i. It is suitable for the summer when the larvae are small and actively feed near the soil surface. This approach implies using Sevin and Dylox that contain carbaryl, clothianidin and trichlorfon.
The latter chemical has certain restrictions as trichlorfon is banned for use on school territories of certain states, mainly because this substance is extremely soluble in water. It is toxic for humans and causes such symptoms as headache, excessive sweating, muscle weakness as well as nausea, tears and other symptoms for animals. The substance is dangerous if swallowed, inhaled or, it can be dangerous if it touches your skin.
According to the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment experts, carbaryl is less effective than trichlorfon. Another scientist, Dr. Carbaryl tends to be very inconsistent, and we sometimes see more grubs in the treated plots than the untreated plots. We are guessing it is because carbaryl is highly toxic to several beneficial insects. Carbaryl is also very toxic to honeybees and other bees. Pat Vitrum recommends using chlothianidin as a curative method when trichlorfon or carbaryl cannot be used for some reason.
The thing is that the grubs begin dying only two weeks after using chlothianidin which definitely cannot be considered a radical solution. On the other hand, it is much faster than preventive treatment. A preventive approach is considered to be most effective and should be taken before larvae hatch, i. However, it solves future problems and does not act against existing pests. Once you apply a preventive insecticide, you will provide your garden with great protection against future generations of grub worms.
How do you know that your soil requires treatment? The golden rule is the following: if you discovered these pests last fall or spring, do not hesitate to use a preventive insecticide for a year or two. Merit, MachII and GrubX that contain such chemicals as imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, halofenozide, clothianidin or chlorantraniloprole are considered preventive control products. They are effective against grub worms that hatched in July and not against ones that are found from September till May.
The Michigan State University Extension experts additionally distinguish another active ingredient of insecticides, chlorantraniliprole. It is also considered to be preventive, but can be applied at any time as soon as green grass begins growing. However, research has shown that the effect is maximized if chlorantraniliprole is used from April till June.
Chlorantraniliprole is an ingredient of Acelepryn for commercial use and GrubEx for homeowners. This is a relatively new low-toxic insecticide. The Michigan State University Extension scientists estimate that products that contain only such active ingredients as lambda-cyhalothrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin will not solve the problem of grub worms.
These ingredients are only effective against the insects that feed on the surface and not against larvae consuming roots. The products are available as granules that should be used along with a fertilizer spreader as a liquid concentrate or a ready-to-use sprayable mixture.
Granules are the safest as the insecticide will be consumed. Ready-to-use liquids pose a moderate threat as liquids can be spread with the wind.
Concentrates carry the biggest risk as it is crucial to mix them with water in a proper ratio. In all three cases, you can only walk on the treated territory after the grass dries. If you are not attracted by synthetic treatments, use natural ones.
Apply milky spore powder , i. The powder is only effective against Japanese beetle. The product provides stable results regardless of weather conditions. However, the effect depends on the number of grubs on your lot, as the more there are, the faster the deadly grub disease spreads.
Moderately irrigate the soil with water. In some cases, the grubs infected during late fall can survive until spring. Use neem oil , a natural insecticide made of the evergreen Indian tree. This organic biodegradable substance does not have any substantial side effects, as the Environmental Protection Agency estimates.
Mix neem oil with water and spray damaged grass. The insects consume this insecticide as if it were a natural hormone. Once ingested, neem blocks real hormones and the pests forget how to eat, lay eggs or even fly.
In addition, it has a repelling effect as its presence and smell scares off the insects that consume leaves.
It does not yield quick results, but in the long run, you will end up with a balanced environment. You can also dilute them and attach them to a garden hose and apply to wide swatches of your garden or lawn. Granules: There are also grub killer formulas that come in granule form that you apply to the soil. When applied, it kills grubs within 24 hours. A lb. For other lawn pests, you can distribute the formula over a greater area, up to square feet.
It is effective as both a contact insecticide and as a systemic insecticide. It will eliminate the surface insects for up to 30 days, and kill off the subsurface insects for 3 months. Insects will die from either contact or by eating the treated plant. Beware of affecting bee populations: Some of these insecticides may be harmful to beneficial insects as well, such as bees. The makers of the Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer advise not applying the treatment when bees are foraging among flowers.
So, it should be applied in the early spring, while bees are still staying in their hives. Check if you need to water the soil: Some products do not require watering the soil to get the treatment to seep in. The B ayer Advanced Formula Killer Granules has to be spread with a seed spreader, or with a plastic container with holes in the bottom. If you water the soil two consecutive nights, that should be enough to get the formula into the soil.
One customer noticed the next morning that literally hundreds of dead grubs were in the driveway! But, if you irrigate your lawn and keep it well-watered the whole year round, you may have to apply an insecticide to keep the grub population down. Also, when the autumn comes, and the lawn, in general, starts to recover from the hot summer weather, you may see that some parts are nice and green, while other parts are more dingy colored.
The areas that remain dingy may indicate a grub problem. When to inspect your lawn : August and September are the best times to inspect your lawn, to see if it has a grub infestation. If you pull on the grass in a dingy section of your lawn, and you notice that the soil moves around and seems rather loose, that could indicate grub activity further down. If you can lift out a patch with just your hands, you might already be able to see grubs underneath.
If not, then dig out a small patch of your lawn, inches deep, to expose the soil underneath the grass roots.
If you see more than 5 grubs in a soil sample, that means that you should treat the lawn.
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